Marbl is a splashy modern American restaurant from those behind Vancouver’s West Oak.
True to its name, the 180-seat space is lush with marble, represented in pillars, tabletops, counters and decorative pieces.
Steak Tartare ($15) is made with Idaho triple-A tenderloin, shallots, capers and gherkins, amplified by funky ricotta salata and truffle and served with toast points.
Meatballs are $13 for an order of three dense pork, veal and fennel balls braised in San Marzano tomato sauce and served on a bed of creamy polenta, richness broken up by a rapini pesto and chilis.
The Golden Caesar ($10) is an almost oddly affordable and well-executed take on a classic, crisp gem lettuce smothered in creamy dressing and topped with warm guanciale, croutons, grana padano, salty white anchovies and a soft poached egg.
The Royale with Cheese ($22) follows the style of a traditional smash burger, similar to much cheaper versions found at Rudy or Extra Burger, but handmade patties are a mix of 70 per cent brisket, 30 per cent chuck, all beef triple-A from Idaho. With no filler, coarse ground meat isn’t mixed too thoroughly for a textural consistency.
On a plain white bun and set off by typical toppings of cheddar, house thousand island, lettuce, tomato, pickle and onion, they’re served with herbed fries, a house “A2” barbecue sauce and a malt vinegar aioli.
Veal Chop “Parm” ($36) pounds out and breads a monstrous milk-fed bone-in veal chop, pan-seared and topped with tomato sauce, gooey burrata, shaved parmesan and basil.
A bone-in ribeye ($47) comes from a selection of a half dozen grill a la carte options. Recommended cooked to a melty medium, all grilled meats are served with A2, a bright chimichurri, a thick “Chalet” sauce and an aromatic French onion sauce.
Broccoli and cheese is one of about a half dozen $8 sides, poached with lemon and chili so it’s snappy and flavourful and laden with a thick, addictive aged cheddar sauce.
Desserts running around $8 include an epic warm chocolate chip cookie topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and chocolate shavings that’s soft and sweet enough to actually finish even after an extravagant meal here.
The Venus de Milo ($15) takes inspiration for its name from the marble medium, a sensual combination of Tanqueray 10, Cocchi Rosa, oleo saccharum, sparkling wine and an Earl Grey mist.
Crimson and Clover ($16) is a wintry combination of Zacapa 23-year rum, Benedictine, port, a winter spice syrup, and coffee, smoke and orange bitters, indicating seasonal rotation of some cocktails.
Champagne lounge Mademoiselle downstairs features DJs, Belvedere bar rail and high-end champagne brands.