Next summer, things are going to get a bit touchy-feely, in the best possible way. For SS20, menswear trends are all softness and sensuality, a resounding clapback to the chest-out testosterone of all that sports- and streetwear from recent years. This is masculinity as a louche, tactile thing, all soft fabrics and sighs.
The shift was most visible in tailoring trends, which flooded every runway with colour, pattern and textiles that begged to be touched. These were not suits for work. They were the embodiment of play, as though finally freed from the nine-to-five by jeans-friendly offices and ready to embrace all the brightness they’d been forbidden for the past century.
This sense of fun – of dressing for yourself and having a damn good time doing it – was the thread that connected a season of joyful but disparate design. In a dark world, it was as though menswear turned toward the light and realised that the future is malleable, there to be shaped, not merely survived. Its world is defined not so much by rules as a shared set of ideas about how we get dressed. And, more importantly, why we get dressed.
These are our picks for next year’s summer trends, and how you can start wearing them right now.
With near every runway awash in suits for the first time in a decade, designers played with their every permutation for SS20. Fastenings proved especially ripe for experimentation – there were few brands that didn’t get the double-breasted memo, and each brought its own spin on how to do one up.
At Dior, Kim Jones showed another spin on his wraparound jackets, again with an inbuilt sash, although this time they were worn open as often as closed. Dries van Noten also embraced the straitjacket look, emphasising a narrow waist with beefed-up shoulders, and Sacai got experimental with straps that disappeared amid layers of fabric.
Italy’s tailoring powerhouses, however, went the other way. Zegna, Corneliani and Armani went big on one-and-a-half-breasted suits; jackets that wrap more than single-breasted, but only just, as if they were a couple of negronis in and couldn’t quite summon the energy.
How To Wear It Now
While you wait for the funky stuff to arrive, you can at least mix things up with more straightforward double-breasted tailoring. Look for a loose suit that you can break up by wearing the jacket with jeans, or even smart joggers.